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  1. Home
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  3. Nozzle Cleaning

Nozzle Cleaning

Clean the nozzle line assembly on an EnergyLogic waste oil burner once a year, or sooner if the nozzle blocks with debris. The tell is the fuel pressure gauge: a healthy machine runs at roughly 5 psi and should not sit above 10–15 psi, so a reading in the 60s means something above the pump is plugged. Rule out the solenoid valve and the preheater first — if both are clear, the blockage is in the nozzle block assembly, and most often in the nozzle itself.

Order Nozzles & Service KitsNozzle Block Assembly Cleaning (PDF)

Written and reviewed by the NuEra Heat service team

Written from section 8.5.5 and 8.5.6 of the EnergyLogic heater installation and operation manual, the EnergyLogic and BlackGold Service Guide, and our own shop service notes. NuEra Heat has been selling, servicing, and stocking parts for waste oil heating equipment for over 30 years across Alaska and the Pacific Northwest. About NuEra Heat — questions on any step, call 1-800-347-9575.

Personally verify that main power is turned off and locked out at the circuit breaker before starting, and let the heater cool to room temperature. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves throughout.

How to tell the nozzle is blocked

Troubleshooting starts at the gauges while the machine is running or trying to light. EnergyLogic waste oil burners operate on volume rather than pressure, so the number on the fuel pressure gauge varies — it can be as low as 1 psi and typically reads around 5 psi. What matters is the direction: a gauge sitting at 65 psi is telling you there is a restriction somewhere above the pump.

Three components can cause that restriction: the solenoid valve, the preheater, and the nozzle block assembly. Rule out the first two with their own procedures, and the nozzle is what remains. The service guide's recommended running numbers for a bright yellow/white flame are a fuel pump pressure of 5–10 psi, suction of 0–8 in., and air compressor output of 8–12 psi — worth confirming after any nozzle work.

A new nozzle is included in every annual service kit, so if you are already close to the service interval it is usually faster to fit the new one than to clean the old one.

Tools and parts

  • 7/16 in., 1/2 in., 3/4 in. and 17 mm (boxed end / 12-point) wrenches
  • 5/8 in. socket and ratchet, plus a 5/8 in. wrench
  • 1/4 in. nut driver, hex wrench, flat-blade screwdriver
  • Vise, small wire brush or pipe cleaner (from the maintenance brush kit)
  • Parts washer fluid and a shop air gun
  • Safety glasses and rubber gloves

Replacement parts: the nozzle o-ring (PN 20213152) at minimum, or a new nozzle — PN 20210123 for the EL-140H and EL-200H, PN 20210124 for the EL-350H. The annual maintenance kit PN 05000027 (EL-140H/EL-200H) and PN 05000028 (EL-350H) bundle the nozzle with the preheater, drip cap, burner and solenoid gaskets and o-rings plus the fuel and air compressor filters. There is also a dedicated nozzle block cleaning kit (NU9008).

Removing the nozzle line assembly

  1. Wear all safety equipment.
  2. Remove the preheater and burner from the furnace.
  3. Using a 7/16 in. wrench, disconnect the fuel and air tubing from the nozzle block.
  4. Using a 17 mm boxed-end / 12-point wrench, remove the knurled nuts from the nozzle block.
  5. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, loosen the ignition transformer screws. Rotate the tabs out of the way and lift the ignition transformer back on its hinge.
  6. Disconnect the nozzle heater two-pin connector.
  7. Slide the nozzle block assembly out through the air tube.
  8. Unscrew the electrode screw and remove the electrode from the nozzle assembly.
  9. Inspect the electrode wire for excessive wear and the porcelain for cracks — replace as necessary.
  10. Remove the retention head by loosening the collar set screw.
  11. Slide the air vane off the nozzle line assembly.
  12. Using a 5/8 in. socket and ratchet, remove the nozzle from the nozzle block assembly.

The figures showing each of these steps — disconnecting the nozzle block, sliding it out of the burner, worn versus new electrodes, and the exploded nozzle — are in the Nozzle Block Assembly Cleaning PDF.

Cleaning and reassembling the nozzle

The nozzle comes apart into three pieces: the stem, the spinner, and the cap. The spinner is what atomizes the fuel for a proper burn, and it cannot do that if its vanes or the air channels in the stem are gummed up — so it is the piece that most rewards careful cleaning, and the piece you least want to drop. The brass is soft; clean it thoroughly but do not gouge it.

  1. Using pliers and a towel, gently clamp the stem of the nozzle and spin the cap counter-clockwise off the stem. A small spinner sits loose inside — do not lose it. (Skip the cleaning steps if you are installing a new nozzle.)
  2. Clean all the parts with parts washing fluid.
  3. Replace the stem o-ring.
  4. Holding the stem vertically, place the spinner on top of the stem, then thread the nozzle cap onto the stem and tighten it.
  5. The passage through the nozzle block has a plug at the opposite end of the nozzle. Remove it to clean the passage completely, and use thread sealer when you reinstall it.
  6. Clean the nozzle passage of the nozzle block, being careful not to get parts washer fluid on the heater wiring harness. Make sure every part is clean and dry before reassembly.
  7. Reassemble the nozzle line assembly, setting the flame retention head and electrodes to the specifications below. Re-install the air vane in its proper location — the opposite side of the bulkhead fitting.
  8. Perform the start-up and system checks after every maintenance cycle, and record the checks, work performed, and gauge readings in the maintenance log.

Reassemble the nozzle in the vertical position: hold the stem in one hand, place the spinner on top, then screw the head down. Lubricate the o-ring with oil before the nozzle goes back in. While the block is open, look inside it and clear any debris that has collected. Once the nozzle is secured, verify the electrode condition and placement, then test fire.

Electrode and flame retention head settings

Reassembly is where a nozzle service is won or lost. Adjust the electrode wires with needle-nose pliers to these factory specifications, and make sure there is a gap between the electrode wires and the nozzle, and between the wires and the retention head inner diameter:

  • Electrode gap: 3/32 in. (2.4 mm)
  • Electrode tips behind the nozzle cap: 1/16 in. (1.6 mm)
  • Nozzle protrusion past the retention head vanes: approx. 1/16 – 1/8 in. (1.5 – 3 mm)
  • Vertical location of the electrode wires: 7/16 in. (11 mm) from the nozzle center to the wires
  • Retention head recess into the air tube: 1/16 – 1/8 in. (1.5 – 3 mm), centered in the tube

There are two electrode and retention head designs. On the "double bend" electrodes the retention head is installed with one leg vertical and the electrodes straddle that leg. The "single bend" design only goes with retention heads that have the added center cutout — that cutout is centered vertically, the electrodes mount inside it between two legs, and a tab on the retention head collar fits the channel on the bottom of the electrode ceramic. The settings are the same for both.

Center the retention head before you close the burner

A flame retention head that is off-center in the burner tube is the most common cause of burn chamber damage. If the gap at the bottom is wider than the gap at the top, more air from the combustion fan exits the bottom and pushes the flame up against the side of the chamber. One side of the chamber then overheats and can burn through or crack — an expensive, time-consuming repair.

The fix takes seconds: look down the tube and check that the spacing around the ring is even, nudging it with your thumb until it is centered. Do this every time, just before closing up the burner after service. Get it right and the chamber outlasts the rest of the machine — we have customers running the original burn chamber past 18,000 hours.

The air vane matters for the same reason. It must be re-installed in its proper location — the opposite side of the bulkhead fitting — because an incorrectly installed air vane produces an off-center flame that may damage the heat exchanger and voids the heat exchanger warranty.

After the service

Run the start-up and system checks after every maintenance cycle and record the gauge readings in the maintenance log, so the next technician has a baseline to compare against. Check the flame through the viewport from at least 18 inches away — it should be bright yellow. Ash removal and blower wheel cleaning are on an 800–1,000 hour cycle, and the machine as a whole must be serviced annually or every 1,000 hours, whichever comes first.

If the burner will not light or locks out after the nozzle work, the cad cell test and the furnace wiring diagram cover the ignition and control side. Related reading: the Nozzle Maintenance blog post, which has photographs of a normal and a blocked pressure gauge, and avoiding burn chamber damage from a misaligned nozzle assembly.

Parts and support

NuEra Heat stocks 100% of the parts for EnergyLogic and BlackGold equipment — nozzles, nozzle blocks, air vanes, electrodes, and flame retention heads. Use the interactive explosion charts to find a component on a diagram and jump straight to it in the store, or browse the support library for the full manual set. Background on the equipment itself is on the waste oil heaters guide.

Sources: EnergyLogic Heater Installation and Operation Manual sections 8.5.5 and 8.5.6 — download the manual (PDF) — and the EnergyLogic and BlackGold Service Guide (PDF).

Pressure gauge reading high?

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Shop Nozzles & Service Kits
Recent Posts
Contact Info

NuEra Heat
14409 NE 79th St

Vancouver, WA, 98682

Toll Free: 1-800-347-9575
info@nueraheat.com
nueraheat.net

Product Categories
Waste Oil HeatersWaste Oil BoilersParts & AccessoriesWaste Oil Heater GuideWaste Oil Furnace GuideUsed Oil Heater Fuel GuideFurnace Wiring DiagramCad Cell TestingNozzle CleaningEnergyLogic vs LanairEnergyLogic vs Clean Burn
About NuEra Heat

NuEra Heat serves nueraheat.net.


© 2026 – NuEra Heat – All rights Reserved

Site CreditsPrivacy and Data PolicyTerms & ConditionsAdmin